Best of Spain & Portugal (Insight) Sep/Oct 2014

DAY 1 Tour

After breakfast about 9a.m. we checked out of room and luckily our room for the tour was available. Enquired at reception about our Insight tour and we were given an envelope from the tour director with info for the welcome dinner this evening and schedule for Sunday. Dropped out bags off at our new room and headed out to explore with map in hand. 16o degrees sunny and a bit cloudy, not too cool. Lovely tree lined streets, lots of fabulous statues, found Puerto del Sol and Plaza Mayor, very impressed by Madrid so far.

We were on our way to the Palacio Royal, there was a queue to get tickets. We were entertained by an accordion player and a man singing light opera – very enjoyable. €10 entry to the palace, no photos allowed in the rooms. The armoury which was in a separate section and not well marked was very good but again no photos. Lots of models of horses in armour with a soldier in full armour with jousting pole.

Walked back the way we came, had a gelato and stopped for lunch at Cafe y Tapas. We shared a trio of tapas: gazpacho, jamon croquettes (2), potato omelette, plus ½ litre of sangria (about €20). We were also given a plate of green olives with the drinks. WE then went to the Retiro gardens on the way back to the hotel. The gardens were very nice, we were pretty weary by then so just sat and people watched for awhile.

6.15p.m. met the tour director – Dawn (a Scottish lady, married to an Italian who lives in the south of France – she has been an Insight TD for 35 years) and fellow travellers in the lobby before going to a restaurant for our welcome dinner. Mostly Australians and Americans, 1 couple from NZ and 2 couples and 1 paid of ladies (travelling together) from Canada. 4 people needed to use walking sticks some/most of the time but certainly kept up with quite a fast paced tour. We had 4 birthdays on tour. This was our first Insight tour (we had done Trafalgar tours before), the age group was certainly the oldest so far with most people 65 plus, 1 lady celebrated her 79th birthday on tour. Only 1 solo traveller (male). I was travelling with my daughter (aged 25).

We had a glass of cold sherry for a welcome toast and then our tapas meal: 2 types of jamon and toasted bread with mashed tomatoes, 2 croquettes each, tortilla (omelette with potatoes and onion), white asparagus with mayonnaise, cheesecake and lemon sorbet for dessert. Red/white wine, beer and soft drink. Back at hotel by 8.30p.m.

DAY 3 – SALAMANACA

6.15.a.m. wake-up call (phone call came thru at 5.55a.m.!) 7a.m. breakfast. 8a.m. depart.

We’d only travelled a couple of blocks when we had to return to the hotel as 1 person had forgotten something. Luckily the only time this happened and we had a very punctual group of travellers – I think most people who travel are well aware and considerate of others when it comes to time-keeping.

Off to Toledo where we had a photo stop across the river for great views of the Alcazar (unfortunately we didn’t visit). I really like how a lot of towns in Spain are perched on hilltops – fabulous views. The local guide (an 80 year old eccentric and racist – towards the Asian tourists in town) took us on a walking tour thru the maze of streets, more lovely buildings and balconies to the cathedral. 3 organs, statues, Goya paintings, ceiling frescoes, there as a hole cut out of the rook to let light in right where there was a lovely fresco – certainly dramatic. Then we walked back to the main square where we had 1 ½ hour for lunch/free time.

Prior to the walking tour we had a quick visit to a Toledo steel/sword shop where my daughter bought 2 daggers which ended up being confiscated at Brisbane airport! Anyone interested in bringing back swords/daggers needs to research on the customs website about what you can legally bring back. Fortunately, the daggers had been declared so not such a big drama, just disappointing that the souvenirs were seized.

We spent a lot of time walking around trying to find a shop that we had passed earlier that displayed Lord of the Rings swords and statues – it was right back at the beginning of the walking tour, eventually found it! Only had time to grab something quick from McDonalds before returning to the bus.

We stopped at Avila for a photo stop of the walled town. Dawn (TD) told us that when we get to Portugal we would have an opportunity to walk around the walls of Obidos (which I did do). Arrived in Salamanca around 4ish. Went to our rooms to freshen up and then met Dawn in the lobby – she took us for a walk to the Plaza Mayor and the cathedral – very attractive buildings and balconies. On the outside of the cathedral the stonemasons who had done renovations had left their mark – an astronaut and a gargoyle eating an ice cream – we tried looking for them to no avail, once Dawn pointed them out to us they became very obvious!

8p.m. buffet dinner in the hotel – salad, fish soup, paella, slices of pork, potato bake, tinned peaches and pineapple. Ok, not that great.

Many of the hotels we stayed at had interesting features – you almost needed to be an engineer to figure how to use the showers! Fortunately my daughter is technically minded and managed to decipher. Plus, when I take off my glasses I can’t see much! This was 1 hotel that had motion sensors for the lights – an energy saving device. We were in twin bed rooms - most times the beds were pretty much pushed together – you would not have wanted to share with a stranger! On this night, I slept in the bed closest to the bathroom and I happened to kick off the bed coverings several times in the night – each time triggering the lights to come on! A few hotels the air conditioner would automatically turn off in the middle of the night – much to peoples’ annoyance. After this trip to Spain and Portugal it makes me think we take for granted the great air conditioning that we have in Australia.

DAY 5 LISBON

6.30a.m. wake-up 7.15a.m. bags out 7.00a.m. breakfast 8a.m. departure

2 stops today on the way to Lisbon. Fatima – first we stopped at like a Catholic shopping centre – lots of souvenirs and Catholic/Fatima related items. Then we went to the Fatima site, we had 1 ½ hours here - walked around, lots of shops, saw people on their knees “walking” towards the church, strong smell of burning candles.

Obidos was the 2nd stop – a medieval walled town. We had 1 ½ hours here as well. It was quite hot and sunny. I walked half way round the wall – very uneven and no railing behind you but quite safe if you watched where you were walking. Lots of great views. There was a post office in the town so bought stamps for my postcards – in this digital age I still like to send postcards to my family and usually arrive home before the postcards reach their destinations! We enjoyed a sangria in a nice shady spot before returning to the bus.

The Dom Pedro hotel is very nice – we had a great view of the harbour from our room. There is a shopping centre across the road so went here to find dinner. We ate at a steak place – sirloin steak, massive baked potato and small scoop of coleslaw €11.90 each, very nice.

Will have to take a break from posting about the rest of the tour - hope to do some more next weekend.

I tried the Francesinha while in Porto as well, and really liked it. I was quite big though and came with fries, so I shared it with another tour companion.

The tour director I had during my Spain and Portugal tour with Insight told us on day one that the bread, olives, cheese, etc. they put on the table is not free, and if you don’t want it, you have to tell them to take it away, but if you eat it, you pay for it. In Canada, if they put bread we didn’t order on the table, it’s free.

I’m looking forward to reading the rest of your tour as I did this tour in 2008. We did it in reverse order though, as there were two tours going and it was easier to have us go in different directions. I enjoyed this tour but felt like I didn’t see enough of Portugal, which is why I went back there earlier this year.

Denise, I too am counting down the years to retirement so that I can travel more. Of course, I will have more time to travel when I’m retired, but who knows if I’ll have the money to travel more than I do now. Retirement is far off for me though, so for now, I’ll have to be happy with travelling once or twice a year.

I’m glad you enjoyed the Royal Palace in Madrid. I really liked Madrid when I was there, but didn’t see enough of it. I went to the Reina Sofía Museum upon arrival, but didn’t have time for any more independent sightseeing. I wasn’t able to add an extra day when I did this tour. I’m hoping to go on Trafalgar’s Northern Spain tour in the next couple of years, which starts and ends in Madrid, so I’ll see more if it then.

DAY 7 SEVILLE

6a.m. wake-up, 6.30a.m. bags out and breakfast , 7.30a.m. depart

Returning to Spain this morning we had to move our clocks forward 1 hour, hence the early start. On our drive this morning we saw lots of cork trees – easy to spot by the burnt orange/brown colour of the trunks where the cork had been stripped – this occurs every 7 years. Viktor, the driver, pulled off the highway and alongside a cork plantation so that we could get a closer look and peel off small pieces of cork. One thing I noticed here was that all the wine bottles had corks – unlike in Australian where all the wine now seems to be screw top.


We stopped at a service station for lunch where Dawn (TD) had arranged for bread rolls to be ready made up for us to purchase – a choice of ham and cheese or cheese, tomato and lettuce. For the remainder of the tour our lunch breaks more often than not were at service station type areas.


Upon arrival in Seville we had our group photo taken in front of the bull ring. Next with our local guide we walked to the cathedral where we saw Christopher Columbus’ tomb, lots of gold and silver treasures. Great architecture of the cathedral, gothic, renaissance and some Moorish influence.


Seville is a maze of streets, orange trees growing all along. The oranges are the bitter variety used for marmalade. 3p.m. and lots of people having lunch, the streetwalks were jam packed. Lovely buildings, very nice city.


5p.m. arrived at the hotel. Dawn (TD) already had our room cards and our bags were waiting in our rooms. Very modern hotel. We found a Mexican restaurant – La Chapaterria, on Trip Advisor not far from the hotel – it didn’t open till 8.30p.m. which is the norm here. We were the first people to arrive at the restaurant, very tiny, only about 8 tables. The waiter spoke only a little English, I had my Spanish phrasebook so we managed ok. We ordered the degustation menu for €14.95 each. Lots of bits and pieces, all very tasty and very filling. Walking back to the hotel about 9.30p.m. we saw lots of families with young children out dining.

DAY 9 GIBRALTAR – TORREMOLINOS

6.45a.m. wake-up, 7.30a.m. bags our & breakfast, 8.30a.m. depart


We drove to the Spanish/Gibraltar border where we walked across the border with our passports open at our photo page. No checks. I asked for a stamp in my passport but was told “we don’t do stamps”. You actually walk across the airport runway to get to where the mini buses are that take you around the rock. We split into 2 groups to travel around in 2 mini buses – the driver was our guide. We drove up to St Michael’s caves – 20 minutes to walk thru the caves. The caves were lit by alternating coloured lights so the stalactites and stalagmites look even more spectacular. Concerts are held in the caves due to the great acoustics. Outside there were several Barbary apes, a couple with babies, some of them seemed to pose for photos. The apes climbed all over the mini buses and 1 even jumped on a lady’s head. A few photo stops on the drive – it was too hazy to see Africa – could faintly make out a shape on the horizon. We were then dropped off in the main town area to get lunch. Unfortunately as it was Sunday most of the shops were shut but I did manage to buy postcards. For food it was a choice of Burger King or overpriced fish and chips. I wasn’t impressed by Gibraltar– it had a strange feel to it. I did manage to get 2 Gibraltar coins so that was a good souvenir.


Back across the border, on our bus for about a 2 hours drive to Torremolinos. The hotel is directly across from the beach – we all have balcony rooms overlooking the beach from various angles. It took a while for our bags to reach our room so I went looking and they were all stacked opposite the elevator – everyone else was coming and taking their own bags.


We got a map from reception and went for a walk to check out a restaurant for dinner that I’d researched on Trip Advisor before leaving home. Vintage 8 was about 2 blocks from the hotel – turn left out of the hotel then left at Burger King. We checked out the menu – about 15 choices for entree and another 15 choices for main with about 4-5 desserts. Really interesting menu – salmon, salad, duck, prawns, lots of Moroccan dishes (the owner/chef is Moroccan and he speaks good English), steak, chicken, pork. Confirmed that yes we would have dinner here.


Back to the hotel for a rest and shower, back to the restaurant at 7.30p.m. We had a tinto de veranho (red wine with local lemonade and ice) – lighter than sangria. The 2 dishes I chose for entree and main were unavailable so I chose another main course and we shared the entree which was just as well as it was huge. We shared a smoked salmon salad – different types of lettuce, tomato, pineapple, carrot strips, palm hearts, corn, nuts, raisins with a citrus vinaigrette. Lovely, fresh and light tasting.

For main course I had Moroccan chicken (on the bone) with plums, almonds and sesame. Very flavoursome, really yummy – served in a tagine. My daughter had pork – thin slices of very juicy and tender pork served on slices of apple with 2 smears of sauce. 1 balsamic and 1 chocolate! Beautifully presented and absolutely delicious!

We had chosen coconut 2 ways for dessert but the chef/owner talked us out of it – he really wanted us to have a dessert called “3 times a lady”. All the menu choices were named after famous musicians (from The Rolling Stones to Maria Callas). He said if we didn’t like the dessert we wouldn’t have to pay for it. With a recommendation like that we caved in and tried the dessert – it mentioned avocado soup so you can understand why we were a little hesitant!


A small circular light chocolate/nut biscuit topped with a scoop of vanilla sorbet accompanied by a small jug of avocado soup! We weren’t real sure but the chef was confident we would enjoy it. He said to make sure we got all 3 flavours in a spoonful - It was absolutely divine! The avocado soup had a light mint taste – the chef obviously knows his flavours. He then brought us a shot (on the house) of something alcoholic with herbs – though not the Bob Marley type of herbs he was keen to reassure us. It was like a light smooth whisky with a light mint flavour – a perfect way to finish

DAY 11 GRANADA

7.30a.m. wake-up, 7.45a.m. bags out, 9.15a.m. departure


We drove up into the hills above Torremolinos to Mijas – a lovely little village full of white painted buildings where they had donkey taxis complete with a donkey taxi rank! The donkeys even had licence plates on their foreheads. Great views, there was a small bullring dating back to 1900. Lots of leather shops.


When we were on the bus, Dawn (TD) gave us all a packet of sugar coated almonds and a small almond cake/biscuit.


At Granada, we checked into the hotel before going to the Alhambra. A lovely tree lined pedestrian walkway in the middle of the street outside the hotel. At the Alhambra we were split into 2 groups and unfortunately our local guide was not good – half the time we didn’t know where he was – we could hear him on the headsets but couldn’t see him! He didn’t seem terribly interested. We saw a few interiors – I thought the interiors we saw at the Alcazar in Seville were better. The gardens and fountains were very nice. Overall the Alhambra was not as spectacular as I thought it would be – maybe if we hadn’t done the Alcazar in Seville it would have been more impressive.


Tonight we had the dine-around - we had a choice of 3 restaurants with 1 of the choices being the hotel restaurant. 13 of us went to the restaurant that offered oxtail as a speciality and had to be pre-ordered. 3 people (including my daughter) chose the oxtail, everyone else had paella – 2 people had vegetarian paella, 1 chicken and pork, the rest chose the seafood paella.

First we had 5 lots of tapas that really filled us up, then the paella. The oxtail was served with chips which was rather disappointing but seems the way they serve meats here. Mashed potatoes or rice would have been more suitable with the rich gravy that accompanied the oxtail which was served on the bone. We had 2 glasses of red or white wine. Dessert was ice-cream or fruit. Our dinner was quite ok, 1 lady I spoke to that had gone to the 3rd choice restaurant said that their experience was “not good”. A shame, when Insight promote these as being a special event.

DAY 13 BARCELONA

6.15a.m. wake-up, 7a.m. bags out and breakfast, 8a.m. departure


Service centres for lunch again. We stopped about 34km outside Barcelona for cava (sparkling wine) tour and tasting. The owner gave us a very comprehensive tour of his cava production. We tried 3 different cavas including a rose, - very nice.


Arrived at the hotel 4p.m. We decided to walk into the city to the Ramblas. The guy at reception was very helpful, marked the hotel on our map and told us the name of the closest metro: Hospital Clinic! It took us 45 minutes to walk to Plaza Catalunya, nothing to see on the way, a bit of a dingy area, a few restaurants and small supermarkets. Las Ramblas was very busy, we walked all the way down to the Columbus statue. Lots of outdoor seating for cafes, bars, restaurants – people having massive glasses of beer and sangria.


We had dinner in a restaurant in a quieter square off the Ramblas. Very touristy, 3 course set menu for €15.50 each. It was ok. After dinner we went to the nearest metro (we were pretty tired and could not face walking back to the hotel) and bought a 10 trip ticket for €10.30. One good thing about the metro is that we could share the ticket and it lasts until you’ve used all the trips. We had to change lines to get to the hotel but managed all ok.

POST TOUR – BARCELONA

We had 1 extra day in Barcelona and headed out to Parc Guell. We got the metro and then a 1.2km walk to the park – very steep and we got an escalator part way. It was very hot and sunny. Parc Guell only lets in 400 visitors every ½ hour. We had booked tickets online the day before so had our pre-booked time to enter. It was very busy here.


Apparently, Barcelona is a major cruise port with most Med cruises starting/finishing in Barcelona which explains why Barcelona is so very busy.

The monuments were fabulous, though pretty much what you’ve seen in photos/books/internet etc is what there is to see. Excellent gift shop where we bought a small book on Gaudi and a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle of Gaudi architecture.


Walking back to the metro we bought a couple of t-shirts €10-12. Most t-shirts we’d seen in other areas of Barcelona were €20-30!


The Gaudi book we bought had great photos of Casa Batllo which we’d passed on the bus yesterday. We decided to go there despite the €21.50 entry. There is a Burger King just round the corner so had lunch there. There were lots of levels of the house and you could go out on the roof to take photos of all the multi-coloured tiled creations on the roof top. There is a spot on one of the top floors where you can get your photo taken at a window with Gaudi tiles surrounding the window. It was amazing, stupendous, fabulous!

Once we’d finished inside we then took lots of photos outside, including of a lamp post with wrought iron and a bench at the base.

We’d done heaps of walking so headed back to the hotel.

Denise, when I did this tour, dinner in Spain was usually at 8:30p.m./9:00p.m., and we only had dinner before 8:30 p.m. once. So many people complained about the late dinners, that our tour director arranged for a 8:00 p.m. dinner at one of the hotels. She said that we were lucky because the staff normally doesn’t arrive until 8:00 p.m. I was aware of how late people eat dinner in Europe, particularly Spain, but a few others on our tour were not aware of this, and found the late dinners difficult, especially when you’re going to bed right after.

I remember going for a walk after dinner one night, around 10:00 p.m., and was surprised at how many families were sitting outside on patios having dinner. Some of the children were sleeping in their strollers while the rest of the family were eating. I, personally, find 10:00 p.m. too late for dinner, but I guess that’s what they are used to.

Just read your tale and enjoyed it. Thanks so much for sharing!