Post by californian on Sept 16, 2014 16:49:47 GMT
Best of Spain, October 3 – 19, 2012
I flew from Los Angeles one day before the tour, Oct 3, arriving in Madrid at about 9 in the morning of Oct 4, the previous arranged transport took me to the Holiday Inn in the financial district, arriving at about 10:30, waited for an hour or so until I had my room, unpacked a few things, took a quick shower and took a taxi to the Museum of Queen Sofia; this is where Picasso’s Guernica is, among other paintings, sculptures by him and Miro, among others, and hundreds of posters, photos, films, and copies of European newspapers from the Civil War era. This museum was created in 1990 and since then Picasso’s Guernica has been housed there; before Franco’s death in 1975, the painting was in New York. After eating at the cafeteria and walking around the gardens, returned to the hotel. It was very humid and warm in Madrid and the rest of Spain; we did not have any rain, except for a couple of nights, sometimes with very loud thunder.
The next day, Oct 5, was the start of the tour, but not until 5:30, having most of the day free, I visited the Royal Palace, wonderful rooms, one of the best palaces I have seen, the Versailles’ born Phillip V ordered the palace to be built on the site of an old fortress. The Royal Armory room is impressive, similar to the one in the London Tower, but much bigger. Very interesting also is the Pharmacy with shelves and shelves of labeled containers for the medications of the time. After the palace and gardens, I walked along Calle Mayor, did a little souvenir shopping, had something to eat by Mercado San Miguel, entered one of the famous Museum of Hams, which is an enormous deli, it was so busy, that I left without buying anything, although the 1 Euro ham sandwich was very tempting, but I was starting to be pressed by time, continued walking until Puerta del Sol, and took a cab back to the hotel.
Oct 5. By 5:30 most of the group was there, just missing 4 or 5 that will be arriving later or the next day. We were 48, Our TD is David Nadal, Spaniard, with 16 years of experience with Trafalgar, driver, Augusto from Portugal. David had arranged for “tapas” and wine to be served at the hotel, and after the introductions, paper work, a few clarifications about the tour, etc., we departed for the sightseeing Madrid tour. Madrid keeps European time, although is aligned with the UK, the sun rises after 8 in the morning during October, and sets about 8 pm, so it was pretty light until 9 or so.
Oct 6. Early departure for Toledo (still dark), we met the local guide, Yolanda, who took us on the long walk thru the streets of Toledo, saw the Cathedral with the famous El Greco painting, The Funeral of Count de Orgaz, the Synagogue, ending the tour with a demonstration of Damascene art, and steel forging. Toledo was where most of the nobles had their sables, armors done. We came back to the hotel, and at 3, we left for a driving/ walking tour of Madrid, and later the optional dinner. This was at Plaza Mayor, famous old restaurant from 1894, where poets and writers have dined since then, most notable ‘‘The 1927 Generation” Federico Garcia Lorca, Pablo Neruda among others. Foods was too much, after 7 or 8 different “tapas”, most of us were not able to enjoy the main course, I had ordered lamb, which it was delicious, but I could not finish it, same with the desert. Other main courses were suckling pig and steak. Also a veggie paella.
Oct 7, Burgos, Santander. Burgos was honoring their favorite son, Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, El Cid, his and his wife Ximena’ s tomb are in the Cathedral. Beautiful medieval fair and parade, with a play also playing in the center of town. Because it was Sunday, the Cathedral was not open for tour, but we could visit it anyway, saw El Cid’s final resting place. After walking around, I went behind the main plaza, to almost empty streets and found many pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, (The Way of Saint James), had a chat with several of them and they allowed me to take pictures. This was a beautiful stop, so glad we caught the city in the middle of these festivities.
Before arriving to Santander, we had a chance of “discovering” one of several “hidden treasures”. I think I need to keep it secret. Santander, a nice town on the Atlantic side, was a very nice spot to spend the first night on the road. Grand mansions, gardens, very busy and posh place, where Spaniards go to summer. Hotel Santemar, very nice room, dinner at the hotel.
Oct 8, Bilbao, San Sebastian, Pamplona. On to the Basque country, loved this part of Spain, one side of my family had left this area for America in the mid-1800, and I identify a little with the Basque people. We went by Guetaria, known by being the birth place of Elcano, who completed the first circumnavigation after Magellan was assassinated in the Philippines. They have important surfing competitions in this town. Bilbao, old industrial city and one of the major economic centers in Spain, now claims an important place on the tourist circle thanks to the new Guggenheim museum and revitalized area. We did not visit the museum, but had a nice walk around town, and a very good gelato.
Next stop, gorgeous San Sebastian, the beach, the buildings, the pinchos, nice shopping also, had recently hosted the annual film festival. Next Pamplona, with its historic center, famous for the San Fermines and the running of the bulls. We walked part of the route, starting at the Bull Ring and walking backwards to the center of town. The main plaza was having a book fair, picked up a book about Basque traditions, saw a few pilgrims also. Hotel NH Iruna, dinner at the hotel also.
Oct 9, 10, On to Barcelona, mid-day stop at Zaragoza, with its beautiful Basilica and Cathedral, had an expresso with churros, it came with a piece of chocolate on the side. No dieting in Spain…
In Barcelona, we had an introduction to the city, met the local guide, Pepo, who explained about the development of the city and its most known landmarks: Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, Park Guell, The Pedrera, Casa Mila. Long lines to get into the Sagrada Familia, I had planned to go inside, but never had the time. Walked along the Ramblas, visited the Cathedral and old part of the town, Hotel Vincci Bit, very modern, comfortable, dinner at the hotel. Next morning, still dark, we started for the optional to Monserrat and its Monastery. Very hilly road, the driver (a local one today, since it was Augustos’ day of rest) drove a little too fast, most of us though. It was cloudy at the top so we missed the views. This is a not to be missed optional. Lots of walking at Guell’s Park later, very interesting. Came back to the hotel to rest a little, by then, everyone was hurting, the walking, humidity was getting the better of us. Dinner at a local restaurant, very good, and again too much food, with a great entertainer, Mario, who played lots of very well know pieces and a great selection of Carmen, we loved it. We were not offered the optional of the Picasso Museum, and I am sorry I did not have enough stamina to go in my own.
Oct 11th. Started early for Valencia, with a stop at another “Hidden Treasure” (a well preserved Roman aqueduct, near Terragona), lunch stop at Peniscola, nice beach town, enjoying the last days of summer, not too many visitors, great sales everywhere, had lunch and a little bit of shopping, the most ambitious of us went on a hike to the old castle, (Charlton Heston’s movie The Cid, used this castle).
Valencia surprised me, what a modern and beautiful city!, The new city of Arts and Science has a stunning construction by architect Santiago Calatrava. I think Valencia deserves a longer stay, would have love to spend more time and get to know it better. I was meeting a cousin of mine that was visiting Valencia also, had not seen her since the 80’s or early 90’s, we had a very good visit until about 3 in the morning!. Dinner was at the hotel (Paella), but I went on my own with my cousin. Heard that the paella was not very good (?).
Oct 12 – 13th Guadix, Granada. Torremolinos On to Guadix and the famous houses in caves, stopped at one in Purullena, inhabited by a couple and their young son, very interesting, roomy and cool, with and inside temp of 22C, all year round. It was late getting into Granada, went direct to the Hotel and dinner, it was Friday night, lots of young people on the streets. (Granada is a university town) Great view good of the Alhambra from the Plaza Mayor.
Big day at the Alhambra, starting again in the dark, we arrived closed to 9 in the morning. I will post pictures of this amazing place, could never find the words to describe it. We were divided in two groups, with two different local guides, made it easy to follow the history of the place. Our guide, Frank, kept telling us jokes, he has a deep knowledge of the history of the place but I think, in his heart, he is a comedian.
We continued soon after towards Torremolinos and our 3 nights in the beautiful Melia Costa del Sol Hotel, lunch stop was at Loja, province of Granada, hotel and restaurant “El Mirador”,with an exceptional view of the mountains and town. Self-serving style cafeteria, with food to order, very good and prompt service, with a nice CD of guitars playing Spanish music in the background.
Oct 13-14-15. We arrived at Torremolinos early in the afternoon and soon departed for Mijas, one of the white towns in the Andalusian mountains, very interesting little town, their hero, apparently was a local that started his own “burro” taxi service, plenty of them around. We walked instead, did some shopping, lots of good leather stores. Dinner. back in Torremolinos, was at a nice restaurant Casa Floria, with several ‘tapas”, before the main dish: white fish, baked between layers of rock salt. Again all the drinks were included, as on all the meals we had during this tour. The entertainment was so-so, an older gentleman, I think a family member, played the guitar and sang, not very good.
Next day, Sunday Oct 14, was the included trip to Tangier, Morocco. Very early wake up call, left at 6:30 AM, most of us fell back to sleep on the coach; the drive to Tarifa took about two hours, at about 10 minutes past 8, David woke us up, to watch a beautiful red sky: the sun was coming up. Tarifa is a busy port; I believe one of the last cities that were conquered back from the Moors. We took the fast ferry to Tangier, about 50 min. At this end, our local guide, Mohamed, was waiting with their own coach. We went for a ride, got to see the diversity of many neighborhoods, saw a little of the beach and the Atlantic Ocean. Back in town, we continued on foot thru the Kasbah, and the narrow streets to the restaurant. It was noon for us, but 10AM locally, very interesting place, very Moroccan, with musicians and a belly dancer. The main meal was chicken curry. Wine, beers, soft drinks, included. After lunch we went to a Carpet show room and the expected sales pitch. We took the 4 o’clock ferry back, back at the hotel by 7. It was a very tiring day; a few of us were coughing and sneezing, even me, first time I get sick while on tour. I ordered room service and went to bed early.
I was still not feeling very good the next day and had to skip the optional tours scheduled for Monday Oct 15,(Malaga, a castle, Picasso’s place of birth and a wine tasting) I heard it was very good, I just stayed at the hotel most of the time, with a couple of visits to the local pharmacy and supermarket. The rest and meds did me good; I was fine the next day, ready for Seville.
Oct 16-17. Not too early departure (I think 9 am) for Seville, with the included visit to Gibraltar. Very enjoyable tour of the Rock, the caves, tunnels, saw many apes and their babies. Had lunch in town and then we were on our way to Seville, optional dinner and Flamenco Show, after a drive thru the city. Both the dinner and show were very good.
Next day, walking/driving tour of the Maria Luisa Park and the many Pavilions built at the time of the 1929 Hispanic-American fair; the Alcazar, great Moor Palace, in many ways similar to Alhambra, a walk thru the old Jewish quarters, the enormous Cathedral (I think the third on size in the world), saw Columbus tomb, the bishop’s spectacular dressing room; later, a drive outside the city for our “Be my guest” dinner, this was at an Olive oil manufacturing and bottling farm. Dinner was buffet style, plenty of Sangria, wine, good food.
Oct 18. Madrid, the high speed train took about 2 ½ hours to take us to central Madrid, Atocha station. Our bags traveled by coach (Augusto needed to take his break and went home to Portugal, have a new driver, Antonio), we took a different coach for the short drive to El Prado Museum, we met our local guides, again the group was divided in two, our guide, Corinna was very good. By the time we arrived at the new Madrid Hotel NH La Habana, our bags were in the room. Got ready for our Farewell Dinner at a very nice restaurant, don’t remember the name, we were delayed (second time) by demonstrators, had to walk a few blocks. Several dishes again, including soup, before the main entrée, I had paella. We had a group of “Tuna” musicians, dressed in medieval garb. These groups, which started around the 13th Century, are traditionally formed by students, I think our group was a little too old, but never the less, they were very good. Nice last night, most of us were leaving early the next day, but a few were staying a few more days.
It was very busy tour, I don’t remember ever walking so much with pain in the knees, legs, feet… I consider myself in good shape, walk 2 1/2- 3 miles every day, but I found Spain a little overwhelming, maybe it was because of the weather, it was very humid and unusually warm.
I have to recuperate quickly now, started to plan my next tour, next June or July, with three of my grandchildren. I hope I can do this a few more times…
I flew from Los Angeles one day before the tour, Oct 3, arriving in Madrid at about 9 in the morning of Oct 4, the previous arranged transport took me to the Holiday Inn in the financial district, arriving at about 10:30, waited for an hour or so until I had my room, unpacked a few things, took a quick shower and took a taxi to the Museum of Queen Sofia; this is where Picasso’s Guernica is, among other paintings, sculptures by him and Miro, among others, and hundreds of posters, photos, films, and copies of European newspapers from the Civil War era. This museum was created in 1990 and since then Picasso’s Guernica has been housed there; before Franco’s death in 1975, the painting was in New York. After eating at the cafeteria and walking around the gardens, returned to the hotel. It was very humid and warm in Madrid and the rest of Spain; we did not have any rain, except for a couple of nights, sometimes with very loud thunder.
The next day, Oct 5, was the start of the tour, but not until 5:30, having most of the day free, I visited the Royal Palace, wonderful rooms, one of the best palaces I have seen, the Versailles’ born Phillip V ordered the palace to be built on the site of an old fortress. The Royal Armory room is impressive, similar to the one in the London Tower, but much bigger. Very interesting also is the Pharmacy with shelves and shelves of labeled containers for the medications of the time. After the palace and gardens, I walked along Calle Mayor, did a little souvenir shopping, had something to eat by Mercado San Miguel, entered one of the famous Museum of Hams, which is an enormous deli, it was so busy, that I left without buying anything, although the 1 Euro ham sandwich was very tempting, but I was starting to be pressed by time, continued walking until Puerta del Sol, and took a cab back to the hotel.
Oct 5. By 5:30 most of the group was there, just missing 4 or 5 that will be arriving later or the next day. We were 48, Our TD is David Nadal, Spaniard, with 16 years of experience with Trafalgar, driver, Augusto from Portugal. David had arranged for “tapas” and wine to be served at the hotel, and after the introductions, paper work, a few clarifications about the tour, etc., we departed for the sightseeing Madrid tour. Madrid keeps European time, although is aligned with the UK, the sun rises after 8 in the morning during October, and sets about 8 pm, so it was pretty light until 9 or so.
Oct 6. Early departure for Toledo (still dark), we met the local guide, Yolanda, who took us on the long walk thru the streets of Toledo, saw the Cathedral with the famous El Greco painting, The Funeral of Count de Orgaz, the Synagogue, ending the tour with a demonstration of Damascene art, and steel forging. Toledo was where most of the nobles had their sables, armors done. We came back to the hotel, and at 3, we left for a driving/ walking tour of Madrid, and later the optional dinner. This was at Plaza Mayor, famous old restaurant from 1894, where poets and writers have dined since then, most notable ‘‘The 1927 Generation” Federico Garcia Lorca, Pablo Neruda among others. Foods was too much, after 7 or 8 different “tapas”, most of us were not able to enjoy the main course, I had ordered lamb, which it was delicious, but I could not finish it, same with the desert. Other main courses were suckling pig and steak. Also a veggie paella.
Oct 7, Burgos, Santander. Burgos was honoring their favorite son, Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, El Cid, his and his wife Ximena’ s tomb are in the Cathedral. Beautiful medieval fair and parade, with a play also playing in the center of town. Because it was Sunday, the Cathedral was not open for tour, but we could visit it anyway, saw El Cid’s final resting place. After walking around, I went behind the main plaza, to almost empty streets and found many pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, (The Way of Saint James), had a chat with several of them and they allowed me to take pictures. This was a beautiful stop, so glad we caught the city in the middle of these festivities.
Before arriving to Santander, we had a chance of “discovering” one of several “hidden treasures”. I think I need to keep it secret. Santander, a nice town on the Atlantic side, was a very nice spot to spend the first night on the road. Grand mansions, gardens, very busy and posh place, where Spaniards go to summer. Hotel Santemar, very nice room, dinner at the hotel.
Oct 8, Bilbao, San Sebastian, Pamplona. On to the Basque country, loved this part of Spain, one side of my family had left this area for America in the mid-1800, and I identify a little with the Basque people. We went by Guetaria, known by being the birth place of Elcano, who completed the first circumnavigation after Magellan was assassinated in the Philippines. They have important surfing competitions in this town. Bilbao, old industrial city and one of the major economic centers in Spain, now claims an important place on the tourist circle thanks to the new Guggenheim museum and revitalized area. We did not visit the museum, but had a nice walk around town, and a very good gelato.
Next stop, gorgeous San Sebastian, the beach, the buildings, the pinchos, nice shopping also, had recently hosted the annual film festival. Next Pamplona, with its historic center, famous for the San Fermines and the running of the bulls. We walked part of the route, starting at the Bull Ring and walking backwards to the center of town. The main plaza was having a book fair, picked up a book about Basque traditions, saw a few pilgrims also. Hotel NH Iruna, dinner at the hotel also.
Oct 9, 10, On to Barcelona, mid-day stop at Zaragoza, with its beautiful Basilica and Cathedral, had an expresso with churros, it came with a piece of chocolate on the side. No dieting in Spain…
In Barcelona, we had an introduction to the city, met the local guide, Pepo, who explained about the development of the city and its most known landmarks: Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, Park Guell, The Pedrera, Casa Mila. Long lines to get into the Sagrada Familia, I had planned to go inside, but never had the time. Walked along the Ramblas, visited the Cathedral and old part of the town, Hotel Vincci Bit, very modern, comfortable, dinner at the hotel. Next morning, still dark, we started for the optional to Monserrat and its Monastery. Very hilly road, the driver (a local one today, since it was Augustos’ day of rest) drove a little too fast, most of us though. It was cloudy at the top so we missed the views. This is a not to be missed optional. Lots of walking at Guell’s Park later, very interesting. Came back to the hotel to rest a little, by then, everyone was hurting, the walking, humidity was getting the better of us. Dinner at a local restaurant, very good, and again too much food, with a great entertainer, Mario, who played lots of very well know pieces and a great selection of Carmen, we loved it. We were not offered the optional of the Picasso Museum, and I am sorry I did not have enough stamina to go in my own.
Oct 11th. Started early for Valencia, with a stop at another “Hidden Treasure” (a well preserved Roman aqueduct, near Terragona), lunch stop at Peniscola, nice beach town, enjoying the last days of summer, not too many visitors, great sales everywhere, had lunch and a little bit of shopping, the most ambitious of us went on a hike to the old castle, (Charlton Heston’s movie The Cid, used this castle).
Valencia surprised me, what a modern and beautiful city!, The new city of Arts and Science has a stunning construction by architect Santiago Calatrava. I think Valencia deserves a longer stay, would have love to spend more time and get to know it better. I was meeting a cousin of mine that was visiting Valencia also, had not seen her since the 80’s or early 90’s, we had a very good visit until about 3 in the morning!. Dinner was at the hotel (Paella), but I went on my own with my cousin. Heard that the paella was not very good (?).
Oct 12 – 13th Guadix, Granada. Torremolinos On to Guadix and the famous houses in caves, stopped at one in Purullena, inhabited by a couple and their young son, very interesting, roomy and cool, with and inside temp of 22C, all year round. It was late getting into Granada, went direct to the Hotel and dinner, it was Friday night, lots of young people on the streets. (Granada is a university town) Great view good of the Alhambra from the Plaza Mayor.
Big day at the Alhambra, starting again in the dark, we arrived closed to 9 in the morning. I will post pictures of this amazing place, could never find the words to describe it. We were divided in two groups, with two different local guides, made it easy to follow the history of the place. Our guide, Frank, kept telling us jokes, he has a deep knowledge of the history of the place but I think, in his heart, he is a comedian.
We continued soon after towards Torremolinos and our 3 nights in the beautiful Melia Costa del Sol Hotel, lunch stop was at Loja, province of Granada, hotel and restaurant “El Mirador”,with an exceptional view of the mountains and town. Self-serving style cafeteria, with food to order, very good and prompt service, with a nice CD of guitars playing Spanish music in the background.
Oct 13-14-15. We arrived at Torremolinos early in the afternoon and soon departed for Mijas, one of the white towns in the Andalusian mountains, very interesting little town, their hero, apparently was a local that started his own “burro” taxi service, plenty of them around. We walked instead, did some shopping, lots of good leather stores. Dinner. back in Torremolinos, was at a nice restaurant Casa Floria, with several ‘tapas”, before the main dish: white fish, baked between layers of rock salt. Again all the drinks were included, as on all the meals we had during this tour. The entertainment was so-so, an older gentleman, I think a family member, played the guitar and sang, not very good.
Next day, Sunday Oct 14, was the included trip to Tangier, Morocco. Very early wake up call, left at 6:30 AM, most of us fell back to sleep on the coach; the drive to Tarifa took about two hours, at about 10 minutes past 8, David woke us up, to watch a beautiful red sky: the sun was coming up. Tarifa is a busy port; I believe one of the last cities that were conquered back from the Moors. We took the fast ferry to Tangier, about 50 min. At this end, our local guide, Mohamed, was waiting with their own coach. We went for a ride, got to see the diversity of many neighborhoods, saw a little of the beach and the Atlantic Ocean. Back in town, we continued on foot thru the Kasbah, and the narrow streets to the restaurant. It was noon for us, but 10AM locally, very interesting place, very Moroccan, with musicians and a belly dancer. The main meal was chicken curry. Wine, beers, soft drinks, included. After lunch we went to a Carpet show room and the expected sales pitch. We took the 4 o’clock ferry back, back at the hotel by 7. It was a very tiring day; a few of us were coughing and sneezing, even me, first time I get sick while on tour. I ordered room service and went to bed early.
I was still not feeling very good the next day and had to skip the optional tours scheduled for Monday Oct 15,(Malaga, a castle, Picasso’s place of birth and a wine tasting) I heard it was very good, I just stayed at the hotel most of the time, with a couple of visits to the local pharmacy and supermarket. The rest and meds did me good; I was fine the next day, ready for Seville.
Oct 16-17. Not too early departure (I think 9 am) for Seville, with the included visit to Gibraltar. Very enjoyable tour of the Rock, the caves, tunnels, saw many apes and their babies. Had lunch in town and then we were on our way to Seville, optional dinner and Flamenco Show, after a drive thru the city. Both the dinner and show were very good.
Next day, walking/driving tour of the Maria Luisa Park and the many Pavilions built at the time of the 1929 Hispanic-American fair; the Alcazar, great Moor Palace, in many ways similar to Alhambra, a walk thru the old Jewish quarters, the enormous Cathedral (I think the third on size in the world), saw Columbus tomb, the bishop’s spectacular dressing room; later, a drive outside the city for our “Be my guest” dinner, this was at an Olive oil manufacturing and bottling farm. Dinner was buffet style, plenty of Sangria, wine, good food.
Oct 18. Madrid, the high speed train took about 2 ½ hours to take us to central Madrid, Atocha station. Our bags traveled by coach (Augusto needed to take his break and went home to Portugal, have a new driver, Antonio), we took a different coach for the short drive to El Prado Museum, we met our local guides, again the group was divided in two, our guide, Corinna was very good. By the time we arrived at the new Madrid Hotel NH La Habana, our bags were in the room. Got ready for our Farewell Dinner at a very nice restaurant, don’t remember the name, we were delayed (second time) by demonstrators, had to walk a few blocks. Several dishes again, including soup, before the main entrée, I had paella. We had a group of “Tuna” musicians, dressed in medieval garb. These groups, which started around the 13th Century, are traditionally formed by students, I think our group was a little too old, but never the less, they were very good. Nice last night, most of us were leaving early the next day, but a few were staying a few more days.
It was very busy tour, I don’t remember ever walking so much with pain in the knees, legs, feet… I consider myself in good shape, walk 2 1/2- 3 miles every day, but I found Spain a little overwhelming, maybe it was because of the weather, it was very humid and unusually warm.
I have to recuperate quickly now, started to plan my next tour, next June or July, with three of my grandchildren. I hope I can do this a few more times…
