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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 20:54:29 GMT
1 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011 ~ Luvtotravel PA USA
This travel tale was written by Luvtotravel and relates to a UniWorld Tour.
It was originally posted on the Trafalgar forum.
This was a River Cruise with Uniworld, Trafalgar’s sister company. I traveled with the same friend I have been traveling with for years. We were on the River Duchess, the same ship we were on last year for Windmills and Tulips. Even in the same room, at our choice because of its closeness to the coffee/water machine and to the central area and elevator.
On Thursday August 24 we were driven by friends to Dulles Airport, Washington D.C. for a flight to Bucharest with a stopover in Copenhagen. For the first time my TA insisted that she order me a wheelchair. It made all the difference in the world. I didn’t arrive at the plane exhausted and out of sorts like I usually do. Interestingly enough, M whizzed right through security with the usual shoes, bags, etc. on the conveyor. I was chosen for the full scan. Even had to remove the tissue from my pocket and stand with my hands over my head while they got to admire my shape. If I had not been able to stand there and walk through without my cane, I would have had to use theirs. We flew on SAS and the plane left at 5:15 on time. I was pleased to note that their Economy seats were a bit roomier than United as their Economy Plus was very expensive. The flight was fine. The only thing we didn’t like was that there was no choice of meal: it was some sort of salad that had couscous and something fishy in it (anchovies?) The main course was chicken on the left in an Indian type sauce (not hot enough to be a curry), rice in the middle, and veggies on the right including okra. Dessert was a sort of flan and there was a rather dry roll and butter. Coffee, tea, juice, etc. of course. I was fine with it although I thought it an odd meal to have with no choices. Discovered later than M felt quite ill on it for the entire flight.
Day 1 - Arrived in Copenhagen 8 hours later, M still not feeling well. They did accept Euros so we bought water and just observed the airport and read during our almost 3 hour layover. On a small plane we then had a 2 hour flight to Bucharest, Romania. Beautiful view on landing and we did find it to be a beautiful, and quite modern, city.
Fast through customs and luggage. Uniworld Rep waiting with a few others and we left almost immediately for the Bucharest Blu which would be our home for the next two nights. Another Uniworld Rep (the main one) was waiting with our keys and packets of information. There would be a meeting at 7:30 p.m.
By this time we were starved so we just got a quiche and iced coffee at the bar restaurant and went to our room. Our luggage was there and we just rested until a bit after 5. Lovely hotel and beautiful, large room. Key card needed to operate elevator and also electricity in room. I guess “Blu” really does mean “blue” in Romanian because it was the favorite color especially for lighting. The elevators were black with led lights around the floor, some blu and some changed colors—dark enough to make it hard to see floor numbers. The rooms were around a central area looking down to the lobby and along all of the railings were blue lights, it was great but did not photograph well (by me).
Ate at another hotel restaurant and then took short walk. M got money from an ATM. I tried my card at 3 different ones including one in the lobby of the hotel and they would not accept my card. The last one actually showed my name and said “your card has been declined, contact your bank”. While trying to figure out how to contact my bank since I do not have a phone, I took a cash advance from my credit card. Cost $5 plus 50 cents interest, but at least I had a bit of cash.
Meeting at 7:30 was mainly to discuss the optionals for the following day: Bran Castle, 49 Euros or Peles Castle for 55 Euros. Both seemed to be a long distance from Bucharest and would include lunch. We signed up for Bran Castle in spite of the warning that there would be some difficult walking.
To bed by 9:30 after being up for about 45 hours except for brief naps on the plane.
Day 2 – Up at 6. There was a coffee/tea maker in the room so we had a cup before going to breakfast. Another different shower. A round circle right in the ceiling shooting straight down. You could at least adjust the water temp before turning it on. Breakfast at 7. The usual sort of buffet breakfast with tea and coffee served at the tables. There was an egg station where someone prepared eggs to order.
We left at 8 for Bran’s castle and another bus left for Peles. We stopped at a Carrefour supermarket for a long rest stop. Throughout the trip, rest stops were well planned and nearly all at a place where you did not have to pay for the toilets. There were hungry stray dogs in the parking lot, which we learned was a large problem in Romania and also in Serbia. M bought a bag of dog food but they were gone when we came out. She tore open the bag and left it and I’m sure some came back and appreciated it. There was an ATM in the shop and I tried again and it worked fine and I never had a problem after that. My only purchase was a bottle of water.
After quite a long drive mainly along fields we started climbing the Caparthian mountain and passed several lovely, and apparently wealthy, ski resort town. Around noon we arrived at Bran Castle, high up in the mountains. The castle was built against invaders (successful, I assume) and was the home of Vlad the Impaler, the person Dracula was based on in the area of Transylvania. It was also the summer residence of Romania's Queen Marie. We walked up a long pathway to the castle. It was made of large flat stones but unevenly spaced making walking difficult. At least it wasn’t too steep. I went up the steps and into the first floor of the castle and then joined the crowd going on up these little narrow curving stairs. At the top I realized there were going to be more and asked the guard if there would be a lot more. He said yes and offered to let me go through where the entry to the courtyard was roped off. I did and then waited in the courtyard for the rest to come back. It was very crowded and those who went further up really complained about the pushing and shoving of the “local” tourists. This was to be common, no queuing for them.
After viewing the castle, we had time to spend in the courtyard which was filled with the usual touristy stuff, probably the most junky stuff of any we saw – all sorts of Dracula masks, tee shirts, all in amazingly bad taste. I did buy a magnet and some postcards. We had lots of spare time to shop, probably the only time on the trip. Now if only there had been something to shop for. We browsed around trying to keep in the shade and then lost our way back to the coach, tour guide found us and led us back. Embarrassing. Forgot to mention that it was HOT, as it was every day. Our daily information sheet usually said the forecast was for mid-high 80’s F, but I’m sure it was over 90. Still we never had any rain.
We drove back to the hotel with just a brief rest stop. Both ways we saw numerous Banks of Transylvania. I so wanted to get a picture of a sign so I could joke that I wondered if they were blood banks, but never got a pic so ignore the joke. Tired and ate at the same hotel restaurant in their outdoor section. We both paid cash as we never found much use for our Romanian RON. Shades of coach tours, suitcases to be out at 7 a.m.
Missing Photos:-
Caparthian Mountains
Vlad's Castle
Castle Courtyard
Souvenir Stalls
This travel tale was written by luvtotravel PA USA
and relates to a Trafalgar Tour. It was originally posted on the Trafalgar forum.
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 20:54:56 GMT
2 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 3 - Did not sleep well, but up and with suitcases out on time. Breakfast was leisurely as we did not leave until 9 for our city tour with local guide. All tours on the trip were with local guides making the hunt for tipping change a bit of a challenge. Fortunately all guides accepted local currency, euros and dollars (any). We should have been better prepared with single dollars or euros.
We toured the city seeing all of the local attractions and then had a choice, which we had to sign up for the night before, of visiting Parliament Palace or the Village Museum. Parliament Palace was a huge, ornate built by Ceausescu after tearing down a lot of historic Bucharest. It is the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon. Since we have seen many ornate buildings and palaces and also were forewarned that it involved climbing stair and walking long halls, we chose the Village Museum and were not disappointed.
The Village Museum comprised 50 buildings representing the history and architecture of rural Romania. Building from all over the country were carefully taken apart and rebuilt on the site. It says it’s the largest outdoor museum in the world. Usually only 20 buildings are open on any given day. It was very interesting and enjoyable. Not too hot yet and shaded.
Then we went to a restaurant for an elaborate lunch complete with musicians and dancers. Nice but too heavy a meal for lunch as was the one the day before and the Pan Flute was extremely shrill to my ears.
From there we were driven straight to Giurgiu, where our ship was docked and got there about 3:30 p.m. We never had to touch our luggage except for our carry-on. We were welcomed aboard, given our room keys, and escorted to our cabin. Suitcases arrived a few minutes later. All very orderly and quick. We were familiar with the room and with the ship so we unpacked and relaxed until time for the Captain’s Safety talk at 6. To our surprise the captain was the First Mate on the ship last year. He was Dutch and only 30 years old. I know this because one of the older women (probably my age) had the nerve to say to him that he looked too young to be a captain and he told her his age. Frankly 30 didn’t do much to make him seem old enough, but he did a good job. As did the ship’s doctor, and you should have seen her. Went to dinner at 7 and sat with a nice couple from Ontario. I’m not going to go into the meals except to say that it was gourmet dining every night, complete with wine.
Went to the Library (sometimes called the “Captain’s Lounge” especially when he was using it) and used the computer, one of two and they were free this year. Very slow but working so sent a few emails and checked the status of the hurricane (Irene?) heading for the East Coast of the U.S. After going to the cabin, I wrote in my journal for the first time on the trip so you can imagine how up to date and accurate it is. To bed by 10.
Photos:
Houses of Parliament
Village Museum
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 20:56:42 GMT
3 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 4 – Breakfast at 7. Wonderful buffet complete with chef preparing omelets or other eggs to order. Tea and coffee served at table. Tea was English Breakfast but came as a pot of water and tea bag. Found it best to wait to get the tea started brewing before getting anything to eat. At one end were a variety of breakfast foods (and some I would never consider for breakfast) but always scrambled eggs and bacon both crispy and non-crispy. Delicious breads and jams of course and what looked like nice pastries. Fruit, both fresh and otherwise. Juice of course. I usually had a bit of scrambled eggs with maybe a slice of bacon or a sausage, several slices of bread or rolls with butter and jam, and a dish of fruit. Tea of course, I would get part of a glass of milk as I don’t like cream in tea. There was even a jar of vegemite—or was that lunch—but I never saw anyone open it.
Then we were off at 8:30 for Varna, Bulgaria. Usually there were 3 busses and you turned in your room keys and got your Quietvox boxes and a card with a bus # (your choice). There were chargers in the rooms for the boxes so we kept them the whole trip. You got your keys upon your return. This way they knew whether or not you were onboard.
Nice rest stop again after about 1 ½ hr. We received coffee or tea, pastries, and a bottle of water. Another hour to Varna, which is on the Bulgarian Black Sea and considered the seaside capital of Bulgaria. Our first stop was to the Archeological Museum, home to the oldest gold treasury in the world. Up steps to get in and then up two flights of marble staircase. After seeing some of the important things in the museum, we walked to the downtown. Several blocks, bright and sunny, and I saw a thermometer that said 37 C. Unbearably hot and exhausted. I was glad to get back on the bus.
We drove to the seaside and went to a restaurant shaped like—made out of—a sailing pirate type ship. At least one other tourist group there, it was a large place obviously catering to coach tours. Hadn’t used the toilet at the Museum because it was down even more stairs, so naturally it was downstairs here also and unisex with multiple stalls so the person next to you could be of the opposite sex—or not. Food was fine but nothing to write home about. It was on a high cliff with the beach below. Spent some time watching the people on the beach, many of them topless. Unisex there also.
Back on the bus to Rousse where the ship was docked. When we got there it was a fair walk to the ship with one really nasty high step down. We got back at 5:30 and were to be at the Captain’s Cocktail Reception at 6:30. We really didn’t feel like going but changed and went. Were given a glass of champagne and hors d’oeuvres. At 7 was the “Captain’s Dinner”. Sat with two Canadian women. At these the food is fancier (if that can be imagined) and there are no choices except for the main course—Veal Marsala or Butterfish. I had the veal which was delicious as was the whole meal. My notes say dessert was a chocolate pyramid with ice cream and “4 chocolate things”. I wanted to email but was too exhausted. To our room by 9:45 with the decision that I was not going anywhere the next day. Bed by 10.
Pedestrian area
Aren't they always there?
The Restaurant
The beach
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 20:57:22 GMT
4 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 5 – Day Off.
Today was to be an optional full day tour of Veliko Turnovo and Arbanassi with lunch. 69€ It would visit the majestic ruins of Tzarevetz Castle and fortress, a street filled with local artists, lunch with folk music at traditional Bulgarian restaurant, then to village of Arbanassi “home to monumental houses that resemble fortresses” and Christ Nativity Church which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Sounded very interesting but just couldn’t do it, ankles terribly swollen and feeling miserable. Slept in until 7:30 and skipped breakfast even the late breakfast that was served in the lounge from 9 a.m. to 10:30. Just had tea and cookies. M went to breakfast and then to a town walk (Rousse) with the Tour Manager at 9. Once I started moving, I read in the patio (more tea) and then sent some emails. I did go to lunch in the dining room and had some salad, cheeses and gelato for dessert. Sat with woman from Canada—lots of Canadians.
We set sail at 1 p.m. so I went up on deck for a bit but it got too hot. Went down to room and then finally found the ice machine. Down on the lower level in the laundry room. Made iced tea and read in room and then took a nap.
Dressed and went to the Lounge a bit after 6 during cocktail hour and M and I each had the cocktail of the day a “White Russian”, just put on the ship tab (totally cash free ship) but I think about 4€. Listened to the usual TD talk about the next day and then to dinner. Sat with 2 women from Vancouver who became regular companions and good friends. After dinner I went to the lounge for a silly game of “Name that Tune”. Was with a group of all women: 1 Canadian, I American of Egyptian origin, 2 Australians and me. We came in second, but no thanks to me. Bed at 11 feeling rested.
Patio with coffee station
Dining Room
Top Deck
Part of the array of Desserts at lunch
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 20:58:22 GMT
5 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 6 –
No morning excursion as we were sailing. I went to breakfast at 7 and then up on the top deck and read and watched the scenery. Chilly at first but then started getting too warm. Lovely scenery. Mostly vegetation, some people fishing, and some lovely looking villages. At 9, M went to a lecture on the Danube, I skipped it. After lounging on the deck nearly all morning I did go down for coffee and noticed a selection on the machine called “Weiner Mélange”. It was delicious, coffee and milk and frothy but didn’t taste like Cappuccino which was another selection on the fancy machine.
After lunch we bussed to the Fortress of Baba Vidin and Belogradchik Rocks. We traveled about an hour from our stop at Vidin. When we arrived in Belogradchik we first went to a nice hotel for our coffee and pastries, and of course to use the facilities.
Then to the Belogradchik Rocks. They are formed of multi-colored sandstone and limestone, more than 200 million years old, and interesting shapes in which can be seen various figures such as a schoolgirl if you have a Vivid imagination.
Very steep in levels and it was handled in an interesting manner by our tour guides. We had three busses – the male guide from #3 went to the top, our #2 guide went to the middle, and the guide from bus #1 stayed at the bottom. That way people could climb to whatever level they wanted and there would be help available if needed. I understand a man did fall down an embankment, but was not hurt. I of course stayed on the lower level which was fine for taking pictures. They reminded me of the Hopewell Rocks in New Brunswick, CA only above ground. Interesting to see. Difficult walking though. The big stones with large spaces similar to Pompeii.
By then I was hot and tired. They said 89F but it felt hotter. We drove back to Vidin and to the Baba Vidin Fortress. Interesting but again difficult walking and several very nasty steps. We had to cross over the moat (drained) into the Fortress. This tour guide was extremely good and told us a lot about Bulgaria, its people and problems.
Not back until 6, all hot and sweaty. I did change for dinner although I didn’t feel like it. To Lounge at 6:45 for our nightly talk and to dinner. Sat at a table for 6, all women. The two from Vancouver, two from Ottawa, M and myself. At the end of dinner the waiters came marching out with a birthday cake with a tube shooting sparks. I had hoped they would not notice that it was my birthday, but no such luck—they had our passports after all. It was embarrassing but at least they did not sing. It wasn’t a huge cake so we had them cut it into 6 and each had a nice slice, of course this was following dessert, in my case chocolate soup and raspberry sorbet. I could just feel the pounds rolling on, not to mention the indigestion.
After dinner we did go to the concert by a Children’s Dance Troupe (teens), followed by their leader giving us a demonstration on how to make yoghurt. We were then invited to compare different kinds but we had both had too much of a day. Bed shortly after 10, but really 9 as we gained an hour.
View from the top
Belogradchik Rocks
Baba Vidin Fortress
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 20:59:05 GMT
7 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 7 –
On day 8 we were to have visited Viminacium Roman Excavation Site, called the Balkan Pompeii. It was closed due to a meeting of the Regional Presidents. Because of this Day 7 was totally changed and several new excursions planned. They did not go smoothly.
This was the day we went through the locks that are part of the Iron Gates, an area where a dam and other changes were made in order to make the Danube flow more smoothly. One thing that was done was to totally submerge a town of 35,000 inhabitants who had to be relocated.
I was to breakfast at 7 but this was still too late to see most of the lock activity which I believe took about an hour. After breakfast I did go up on deck to watch but it was too windy so I sat in the lounge to watch nipping out occasionally for a picture. We sailed along with the Carpathian Mountains on one side and the Balkans on the other. Among other sites we saw the carving of an old man’s head which they call the “Mount Rushmore of Romania”. No comparison. The Iron Gates form the border between Serbia and Romania.
At noon we came to the town of Donji Milanovac in Serbia, which is not a common tourist stop. We were met by a brass band, the Harbor Master (or whatever), his daughters holding bread and something else as gifts, and lots of stalls selling stuff for tourists. The town is on a hill with most of the houses further up. Bart, our Tour Manager, said that the women of the town pile into their Yugo’s and come to the harbor to sell their wares. I searched for a Yugo but couldn’t fine one, but the women were certainly there. I didn’t buy anything, but M bought a lace tablecloth and many others were purchasing.
Had the usual great lunch a bit late, but still time to kill as our excursion didn’t start until 2.
There were 3 busses, # 3 supposed to be for the ones who couldn’t walk much. The Japanese were with us.
Note – on the ship were a group of 20-25 Japanese traveling as a group with their own tour guide. Usually they were not on excursions with us.
We had to wait awhile as we were missing a tour guide. Found out later it was a friend of the leader (owner?) who was called to fill in. We were going to Lepinski Vir which was an excavation site of a village from around 5000 B.C. that was just discovered in 1965. With no explanation or comment the bus arrived and people got off including me and at least one other with a cane. Then I noticed that some did not get off. Apparently the non-walkers were not to visit this site because of the walk. Not knowing this we started off. The guide paid no attention to whether or not people were with him. It was miserable hot of course and some of it a bit uphill and I kept falling further and further behind. Suddenly a Japanese man with a bandaged knee was with me asking how I was and walked the rest of the way with me. I did finally get there and in the long run was glad I did. First we saw a film (sitting down) then we saw the actual excavation site and some of the sculptures they found that were heads almost fishlike. There were benches here also. Then we went outside and there was a recreated village. It was all very interesting. For whatever reason, I did not mind the walk back as much. This time though someone else fell behind and someone told the guide and he went back for them.
Back on the bus, it was a different guide. We went to a place called Misha’s Hill, forget it’s historical significance, but a sculptor lived there and apparently hosted tourists. His sculptures were wood, most of them large and were quite good. We were given slivovitz (sp?) and a pastry and chunk of cheese, both awful. The very same brass band was there to entertain us and a few were dancing including the Harbor Master and his daughters—not sure how they got there. Of course you could also buy things. Last of the big spenders, I bought a postcard.
Back on the bus, it was again another tour guide. This time a rather bitchy woman that we had another time also. We went to the ship and she got off. Apparently someone told her we were supposed to have a walking tour of the town. She mentioned it to us and several said NO, we wanted OFF. Everyone agreed. For the first time, I tipped no one.
At 6:15 we went to the River Heritage Club (past customers) cocktail party. I foolishly ordered the drink of the day which was a Mai Tai because I had never had one and, let’s face it, I needed a drink. Completely forgetting that we would be having a glass of champagne. So I had my drink and my champagne and probably 2 glasses of wine with dinner (they never let the glass get empty). Canape’s of course with our Champagne and a little talk by the Captain.
After dinner, musicians were performing in the lounge but neither of us felt like it so we went to the room and by 8:45 M was asleep. I tried to read because I don’t like to go to bed too soon after eating, but the too much to eat and drink hit me and I couldn’t stay awake. Went to bed by 9 and then had really bad acid reflux in the night. Not a good night. Come to think of it, not a very good day either.
Decabalus Rex, the Mount Rushmore of Romania
Welcome to Donji Milanovic
One of the sculptures found at Lepinski Vir
View from Misha's Hill
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 20:59:39 GMT
8 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 8 –
Another sailing day with no excursions. Got up at 7:30. M brought me 2 cups of tea before she went off to breakfast. I finally made it to breakfast about 8:40, before the 9 a.m. closing. At 10 Bart was giving a lecture on “Rise and Fall of Communism” and I skipped it. M said it was interesting. Went on deck when they announced that we would be passing the ruin of some castle. It was a very scenic stretch of the river and I stayed out for quite a while. Then there was a smoky haze which I could tell was affecting my breathing so I had to hurry indoors. Someone said they were burning the stubble of cornstalks in the fields.
After lunch I just read, did emails and sent some postcards. Went back up on deck for a bit but was starting to get too hot. At 3:30 there was a “Bazaar” in the lounge. Basically they took the stuff out of the gift shop and laid it out on tables, like that would make it more appealing—or less expensive. They did also serve food so I browsed and had a little snack. More reading, not sure if I’m on book 2 or 3.
The usual good dinner. We sat at a table for 9 with a mother and daughter from California and several others. Not a good table for me as my hearing is too poor to manage when there are several conversations going on around me After dinner there was excellent Serbian folklore music and dances in the lounge. We had arrived at Belgrade at 7 p.m. Pleasant, uneventful day.
The Castle Ruins
Aong the Danube
Belgrade Harbor
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 21:00:28 GMT
9 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 9 –
Busy morning. Breakfast at 7:15. At 8:30 there was a guest lecturer speaking on “Modern Serbia”. This time I did go and it was very interesting but I did doze off a bit. At 9:45 we boarded our busses for a tour of Belgrade. First we went to Belgrade Fortress. This was absolutely huge. At one time, the entire city was within the walls. Now of course the city has grown far beyond. Much of the fortress is intact and within it are several lovely parks. From here, there was also a lovely view of the river and the city.
After our tour we went to yet another fancy hotel for our refreshment/toilet break. This time I had a Pepsi, the first soda I had on the trip. After this we went to visit Tito’s Grave. When we got there the guide said we would have to walk a bit further because of construction. We could see them working in front of a large white building, a museum I think. So we had to walk uphill from the street. I was thinking we were heading for that building. I was near the end of the group of course and by the time I got to the building the beginning of the string was going around the side of the building and up what I could see was another hill. Another woman had stopped and was sitting on the concrete edge and so I decided I didn’t really want to see the grave that badly and joined her. We moved to a bench in the shade and sat and chatted until the other came back. Her husband had gone with the group as had M so we figured someone would know we were missing if we didn’t spot them coming back. However, we did and back down the hill to the bus. We drove around the city with a few photo stops and then back to the ship. At one point I had taken some Dinar out of an ATM. The tour guide had told us that it was roughly 100 Dinar to 1 € so we took out 500 or 5€ By this time we discovered we had no time to shop and there was nothing to buy anyway. So back to the ship we went. As we were walking from the bus to the ship we noticed a small shop and looked it. It looked promising so we decided to go there after lunch.
We had the afternoon free although there were shuttle busses running for anyone who wanted to go back into the city as long as back before 5 when we set sail for Vulkovar. We didn’t take the shuttle but did walk back to the shop we had seen. Again really nothing I wanted but I did buy a magnet for 265 Dinar.
Spent some time chatting with others in the Lounge and took a brief nap. Ended up at the large table for dinner again. I found conversation difficult with my poor hearing as several conversations were going at once. Decided that I would avoid that large table and never sat there again. There was a “Classical Concert” in the Lounge by our resident pianist but skipped it and went to the room to read, bring my journal up to date which I did most nights, apparently falling asleep while I was writing as my writing got tiny and trailed off. Must have gone to bed sometime.
Belgrade Fortress
View from the Fortress
Museum in front of Tito's Tomb
Belgrade pedestrian square and street
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 21:01:10 GMT
10 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 10 –
Didn’t sleep well and didn’t feel like getting up. M went for breakfast while I showered. When I got to the dining room I sat with a woman from Ottawa and a couple from Australia. They discussed Susan Boyle and reality TV shows, not my cup of tea.
We left at 9 for a tour of Vukovar. It was to be a 1 ½ hr walking tour and it was already hot. To start out, we had to go up the steps to our top deck, across to another ship, down their stairs, up stairs to a restaurant on the shore, and then up a very long gangway. Not a good start. Busses to the main part of town. Very pretty town. It suffered much damage during the war for Croatian Independence in 1991. We were in Croatia by the way. Much war damage still visible and we were told still many land mines in the country. Vukovar was the city where the war began and was besieged by the Serbians for three months. Thousands were killed. It was also the site of what is known as the Vukovar Massacre or Vukovar Hospital Massacre where three hundred men were taken from a hospital and out into a field (a pig farm or a horse farm depending on who was telling it) and murdered. There was a war crimes trial over it. It all seemed so difficult to believe that we were hearing about things that happened so recently. One of the interesting things that we were told several times was that shortly before the war began the Serbs began leaving. Neighbors asked where they were going and they said they were going on vacation. One of the women told us that she was in school and went to school one day and all of the Serbian children were gone. Surely they would have suspected that something was going on, but the talked like it was a surprise.
So we did our tour. We went to a nice church for a bathroom stop. They also had a nice little gift shop and I even saw a nice tee shirt but in the wrong size and I had no time. From there we walked through a fruit and vegetable market and, in spite of telling us the exchange rate and suggesting we compare prices, she marched us through it at top speed. I barely noticed what they were selling let alone the price.
Then we went to an area next to it where there was an outdoor flea market. Very interesting and if space in luggage wasn’t so limited I’m sure there were some good finds. My only purchase was two little Murano (maybe) animals for $3. I was in a pinch for money as I then only had 10€ notes and $20 American bills. Hadn’t thought to change to anything smaller on the ship. After the flea market we walked back to the same church for a ½ hour organ concert. It was very nice and nice to be able to sit down, but very hot.
Then we had one of the highlights of the trip. We took the bus to a smaller town of Osijek where we were to have our visit to a local home. The bus was divided into groups of approximately 10 to go to 4 homes. There was at least one other bus doing the same thing. We only had 9 and one was our tour guide which worked well as her English was excellent. We were directed to a fairly small house on a street where they all looked nearly alike. We noticed that the houses visited all had a plaque on notifying that they were a B & B. Not sure how many tourists come to that area and wondered if it was simply a certification permitting them to host bus tours. Our hostess said they usually had 4 or 5 a summer. The family consisted of a father who was not working because he had lost his hearing, his wife, their 15 and 10 year old sons. They were of Hungarian origin. Their 17 year old daughter was with the grandmother and if I understood correctly hosting another group. They were very warm and welcoming even though the 15 year old was the only one who spoke English. We had a chicken based soup in which the younger boy put several large spoonfuls of Paprika. Then roasted chicken thighs nicely seasoned, mashed potatoes, a delicious zucchini and onion dish, with side dishes of beets and tomatoes. To drink water and lemonade and dessert was some sort of pastry. No tea or coffee. The house was small and the furniture was pushed to one end to make room for a large table. There was a fairly large flatscreen TV. Pictures on the walls were of the children. The kitchen was attached in an L shape and looked nice and well equipped. At the end of the meal, they were selling “for whatever you want to give” plum brandy in small bottles decorated by the wife with their name and a picture. The proceeds were to be used for the children’s education. Naturally we nearly all bought some. We had time to go visit their huge garden. They said they can nearly everything. They also had two hogs, chickens and geese, a guinea pig, some singing birds and best of all a lovely cat with 5 little kittens. Of course it was arranged and they were paid, but it did not seem phoney and was a very interesting and enjoyable visit.
It was a long ride back to the ship. I went to the room but then went up to the Lounge for “tea”. Had Jasmine tea, a small cucumber and tomato sandwich and some fresh fruit. Checked to see if computer available and the whole room was unavailable as it had been in the morning. The Captain was in there it seemed the whole day with Customs officials and someone who opened the door said there were passports laying out so I guess we were getting a thorough scrutiny. It was interesting that the room was referred to as the “Captain’s Lounge” when the Captain was in there for a reason, but the “Library” at other times.
Usual Port talk at 6:45 and Dinner at 7. Sat at a table for 6 this time, the women from Vancouver we had become friends with and a couple from Florida although the husband was Austrian. Had rack of lamb and Mrs. Tollman’s Chicken Soup. We had many “Mrs. Tollman’s” this or that so we asked. Mrs. Tollman was wife of the owner or original owner and her cookbook was even on sale in the gift shop. Didn’t need another cookbook but all of her recipes were delicious as was everything else.
No special entertainment so to room to read and get an early night.
Shelled house in Vukovar
Outdoor Market in Vukovar
Street in Osikek
Saying goodbye to our hosts, the Kalemens
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 21:01:54 GMT
11 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 11 –
Quiet day. We are sailing to Budapest and won’t arrive there until late afternoon. Slept in until 7:30. Feeling lousy and legs and ankles really hurting. Skipped breakfast and had tea on the patio. Maria went to a talk on other Uniworld Tours and came back full of ideas. I spent some time in the library on the computer.
We had the usual delicious lunch. I don’t know if I mentioned but there was always a hot soup and a cold soup. The cold soup of the day was cherry, my favorite. After lunch I went up on deck to watch the scenery for a bit, but it got too hot rather quickly.
At three there was a Strudel Making Demonstration, but I skipped it and rested with my legs elevated. It didn’t seem to help much.
We had an early dinner, 5:45, because there was an optional “Budapest by Night with Folklore Show”. Those of us who were going were seated on the one side we could be served faster. This worked well and we left at 7:15. We had the rough trip up and down stairs to get to the shore again.
Busses took us fairly close to the theater, Duma Palota, for the folklore show. An old and lovely theater. Fortunately there was an elevator. Unfortunately It wouldn’t move if it was overweight and 4-5 people was the max. 3 of us rode up with two of the musicians from the show. One the only female. Concert was excellent, good music and excellent singers and dancers.
We got back on the bus and took a scenic drive up to the Citadel in Buda and stopped for 20 minutes for a photo op. I got out because everyone had to but did not walk the whole way. It was lovely but my camera just doesn’t do decent night shots.
11:15 by the time we got home. To bed exhausted.
On the way to Budapest
Ships at dusk. I think ours is the third one from shore
Folklore Show
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 21:02:40 GMT
12 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 12 –
Up early having slept well and feeling much better. To breakfast by 7:10, practically a record for me. At 9 we left for a city tour of Budapest with a very nice female guide. We first drove around the Buda side of the city at stopped at St Matthias Cathedral and Fisherman’s Bastion, one of the most well-known and scenic places in Budapest. Did not go up on the Bastion but took a few pics across the river from where we were, especially as I realized we were not going to have much time. We were done with the church at about 10 and had until 10:45 on our own. The bus was parked a long way from the square. I had to go to the rest room and use an ATM and knew that it would take me over 15 minutes to walk to the bus as part of it was uphill. Did some quick shopping just for magnets and postcards and still were last on the bus, but not actually late. We then drove to the other side, the Pest side. Drove past the Opera House, the famous Dohany St. Synagogue and other spots required for tourists but no photo ops anywhere which was very disappointing.
Back to the ship at 12:20 for lunch and then off again at 1:30 for the Optional “1/2 day Puszta”, a ‘equestrian extravaganza’ 39€. I would not have done this if I hadn’t been to Budapest before for 10 days. For those not going there was a shuttle bus running every half hour. M had been to a Puszta on a previous trip and thought it was great and recommended we go. We got off to a bad start by having the same unhelpful and inept guide we had the evening before. When we walked to the three busses she ushered us past two busses to the first in line only to find that we should be on the first one we passed. After a fairly scenic hour drive onto Szentendre Island we arrived at a ranch that appeared to be solely for tourists. We were ushered into a long open building where there was another group eating. We were only served a “salty Scone” (dry and awful) and small glass of fruit brandy. I think you could have substituted orange juice. I had the brandy, very strong as were all of the brandies we had. Also the usual rest room break. Hot. Saw a thermometer that said 95F (or maybe the C equivalent. Our daily info sheet said high was to be 86. I think it always said lower than it felt.
Then out to a large corral where we sat on bleachers to watch the show. There were several Lipizzaner Stallions just for show. Then the horsemen put on a show of riding bareback and some stunts followed by a goat and woman with a wagon. Several of our group got to try their skill at knocking a bottle off a post with a whip. Our friend from Vancouver got it second try. I thought it quite entertaining but M was very disappointed because she said they did not do nearly as much or as difficult stunts as she had seen the other time. After the show we all got to take a carriage ride around the buildings and see the other animals with several stops for photos but I didn’t get off because it was too hard to get back on.
Then it was time to go and we had the hour drive back and arrived 7 minutes to 6. Ship was sailing at 6, I guess they would have waited a few minutes for us? Made it to the daily port talk at 6:45 and to the usual great dinner at 7. Sat with the couple from Tasmania and with the Dr. and her mother. Yes, she had her mother along. Not sure if she felt the need for a chaperone or was just giving mom a treat. The mother spoke hardly any English but went on all the tours and spent quite a bit of time with us. Had a delicious fish called Kabeljau (with Penrod caviar sauce yet) and Cherries Jubilee for dessert. No entertainment except the pianist, not that I cared. Early night.
St Matthias Church, Budapest
Looking across at Pest from Matthias church area
Donkey playing dead at the Puszta
Our Doctor at the Captain's Farewell Cocktail Party
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 21:03:35 GMT
13 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 13 –
We are docked at Bratislava, Slovakia, our first country to be on the Euro. Hungary is an EU member but not on Euro yet. Woke exhausted again and so slept until 8 and skipped breakfast—but not my tea. Puttered around, sent emails, checked out the shop, took some pics. At 11:15 we were required to attend the Captain’s Disembarkation briefing.
Somehow our return flight from Vienna to Copenhagen was scheduled for 7:15 a.m. Either it got changed or I never noticed the time. So this required us to have our bags out at 4:00 a.m. and leave at 4:15. Great. They have a good system. There are different colored tags for each departure time which we put on our suitcases so they knew which bags to take when—if that makes sense. There was only one other person with our ridiculous time.
After lunch we departed for a tour of Bratislava. We were on Bus 3, the “gentle walking” group. I did not hear the guide say that the bus would not return us to the ship, but M did. Bratislava was a beautiful, exciting city. I could have spent much more time there. The bus stopped at an overlook spot where there was a large Russian War Memorial. The plaque shows Czechoslovakia, as it was then, Thanking the Russians for liberating them in WWII. 6000 Soviet soldiers were killed. Quite an impressive monument. Then a stop by the castle to look out over the city. About 20 minutes there.
Then to the OldCity. At this point the guide announced that “those who did not want to take a gentle 45 minute walk thru the most beautiful part of the city and with plenty of benches to rest on could be taken back to the ship if the really wanted to do that”. Only a few people went back. The walk was relatively gentle but steady with her talking the whole time as we went past lots of interesting looking shops. I even saw a tee shirt that I would have loved to get for my daughter. We felt we had to keep up because we didn’t know the way back to the ship. Only once did she stop long enough to have time to sit on a bench, but of course they were all occupied.
By the time we got to the place where we parted and she gave us directions to the ship we were a long way downhill from the majority of the shops at an area where there was an area with open market vendors Not nearly as nice as the stuff I had rushed by, but I did buy several tee shirts and the usual magnet and postcards. It was hot (of course) and I was very irritated at not being able to shop at the nice places. I kept looking in the hopes that I would spot some “gem” and M was urging me to get done so we could leave. Sorry to say I blew up at her. I apologized at once, but was still very uncalm on the way back to the ship.
We had just a bit of time to rest before going to the Captain’s Cocktail Party, which would be followed by the Captain’s Farewell Dinner. Everyone was very well dressed for the occasion. We were given a glass of champagne and fancy snacks.
Dinner was of course a special meal with Chateau Briand (or fish) and Baked Alaska for dessert. There were 6 people chosen to sit at the Captain’s table (not sure how) and the service there was over the top. Waiters marching out and standing at attention. One of our favorites couldn’t stand at attention without his nose up in the air and we were close enough to tease him. We also had special wine rather than the usual “house” wine. M thought it might be stronger. At any rate before the meal was over I started to break out in a cold sweat and really felt like I had drunk too much—on a glass of champagne and 2 glasses of the red wine.
There was entertainment but we skipped it and, back at the room, I was actually sick. Whether it was too much to drink since I wasn’t used to drinking at all, or too much food, too much sun, combination of all three, who knows. After two cups of peppermint tea I felt much better but didn’t feel that I dared to go to bed so I sat up and read until nearly 12. In spite of it all, I slept fairly well.
Bratislava is definitely a city worth another visit, but I doubt that I will make it.
Bratislava Castle
The New Bridge with Revolving Restaurant they call the "UFO on a stick"
St. Michael's Gate
Famous sculpture - Cumil meaning Rubberneck. One of our tour members called him "Peeping Tom"
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Post by Owen on Sept 7, 2014 21:04:23 GMT
14 ~ Eastern European Explorer, August 25-September 8, 2011
Day 14 –
Sometime we arrived in Vienna. I was up and to breakfast early feeling relatively fine. Left at 9 for a tour of Vienna. “Gentle walking” group again. Did an hour by bus with a 20 minute stop at St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Then from the square by the Cathedral we walked to the Austrian National Library located in the Hofburg Palace. This was a magnificent building outside and in. Not a public library but a repository of valued books, documents, globes, etc. I especially enjoyed all of the large globes. Naturally none of my photos came out. I think photography without flash was all that was allowed.
After the Library we were escorted to a shopping area and had about 45 minutes. I think this was our longest shopping time of the trip. I bought a few souvenirs. Toward the end I was quite tired. It was gentle walking as described, but there was still a lot of it. Back to the ship at 12:20 leaving not much time for those doing the afternoon optional
This day we had two possible optionals: Schonbrunn Palace in the afternoon for 39€ and Vienna Concert in famous concert hall in the evening for 49€. Of course we also had to fit in packing for our 4 a.m. suitcases out. I really wanted to see the Hundertwasser Houses again and had thought to try to get there in the afternoon, but I really felt that M should go to Schonbrunn Palace as she had never been there. I had and would have enjoyed seeing it again, but I wanted to go to the concert and knew that Schonbrunn involved a lot of walking and just didn’t want to attempt both. So M went to Schonbrunn and, since I didn’t want to venture out by myself (I know, many do it without a thought) I stayed in and packed and rested.
Again an early dinner because of the concert. Not sure what time it started but we were there in plenty of time. Not to my surprise, it appeared that the audience was almost entirely made up by tour busses. I saw busses from about all of the companies I knew and some I didn’t. That didn’t make the concert any less good though. It was excellent but hot as always and at intermission we were served wine or juice (I had juice). It was an old building with just chairs set up on the floor for the audience. Someone had conducted there, Strauss??
Afterwards we had a nice drive around the Ringstrassae to see Vienna lit up. Not back to the ship until after 11. M had packed and was napping. We showered and put on the clothes we intended to wear for the journey home and then both lay on top of the covers fully dressed and dozed off and on. M had set her alarm just in case.
Inside St. Stephen's Cathedral
The National Library
Inside the Library
A museum had a Monet exhibit and painted the stair to look like his waterlilies.
Day 15 –
I’m starting day 15 in the middle of the night, which is exactly what we did. With no real sleep, shortly before 4 we put our suitcases outside the door and went outside to sit in the patio (the coffee, etc area). There were to be sandwiches for us, but none were there. The woman who was also leaving at this ridiculous hour joined us. Then the night receptionist came to get the suitcases and said he would bring sandwiches in a minute. Don’t know if he had to make them also but he was soon back with a few cucumber and tomato sandwiches cut into fingers and I think a few cookies. I did eat two of the finger sandwiches. We went up and a van was there to take us to the airport. No problems at airport finding where we were to go or anything so we just read until time to go, which was ½ hr late due to something with a wheel.
Short flight to Copenhagen. As soon as I exited the plane there was someone there with a wheelchair. After passing through security where M was randomly selected for a more thorough check, which didn’t last long, he took us to a lovely lounge with couches and chairs, restroom. Water to drink but unfortunately no coffee. We didn’t want to go wandering too far off but there was a machine that dispensed coffee, cocoa, etc. and took Euros—coin only. I managed to come up with enough change and had a cup of cocoa.
Flight to Dulles (Washington D.C. was uneventful. Again no choice of meal but it was ok for both of us. Dozed and read and the time seemed to go pretty quickly. As we landed we could see that it was pouring rain. Again wheelchair waiting. Not sure if Denmark is particularly helpful to handicapped or what but the line of wheelchairs from out flight was like nothing I had ever seen. After we got through customs and the luggage carrousel we saw our friend waiting for us. She said she had the rain about the last half of the trip. We didn’t want to make her suffer alone to get the car, which was parked fairly close, so we all went and all got thoroughly soaked in the process, even with umbrellas. Even some of the stuff in my suitcase got a bit wet. 2 ½ hr trip home and on the way we stopped and had a hamburger and fries. It was good to be home.
It was a very enjoyable cruise. The ship holds 134 and I think may have been full. I have no idea of the number of people of different nationalities but I know there were Americans (probably the majority) Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders, and a couple from Tasmania. There were also a lot who were originally from a country other than their current home. Then there was the group of Japanese who were on their separate tour, I’m assuming they were from Japan. A very nice mix, very friendly and congenial.
You will note that this was written from the standpoint of someone who is not able to do a lot of walking, stairs, etc. River Cruises are easier than bus tours for people like that. There was much more that could have been done and I know some who were off on their own nearly every day and seemed to have seen every inch of a city. I envy them, but know better than to try to keep up.
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