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Post by Owen on Oct 2, 2014 12:43:20 GMT
31 ~ Saturday 14 September, 2002
My last day in Paris. The city is now so different from when I arrived here a month ago. Not only have all the Parisians returned and the tourist numbers thinned, the nights are a little cooler, the days a little shorter and the plane trees are starting to lost their leaves and the chestnuts are falling.
I began the day at the Dallayou caf� near the place de la Bastille for a coffee and almond croissant on the terrace. The best almond croissant I�ve tasted! For the first time I sat down and ordered and didn�t even think about how much this was costing me in Aussie dollars. Have I just come accept the Euro cost of things, or am I no longer worried because in 2 days I�ll be home?
I caught the M�tro from Bastille to Concorde from where I did the final walk from my trusty book: Putting on the Ritz, which took me around the Grand Boulevards of Paris built by Baron Haussmann in the times of Napol�on III after the Revolution. My time was spent mostly walking and looking � inside of the Madeleine, in the windows of the haute couture boutiques, the big name jewellery stores, the wonderful fin-de-si�cle tearoom called Ladur�e with its wicked-looking cakes, and that gourmet Mecca, Fauchon. I kept looking until I got to Au Printemps which beckoned me. How could I have neglected to visit this Right Bank department store until the final day? What a fabulous store it is, with the most wonderful bed linens and household goods. I ended up in the ladies fashions and found a beautiful skirt that I just had to buy to wear to my brother�s wedding. I also bought a 60th birthday gift for my Dad in Au Printemps. Whilst looking for the d�taxe counter I came across a Japanese girl who had had her purse lifted out of the top of her handbag whilst in the store, and she was flying back to Tokyo later today. So distressing for her and I thank my lucky stars that I�ve avoided any such incident during my month in France.
That last building in Paris that I really wanted to see inside was the Op�ra de Paris Garnier, another legacy of the times of Napol�on III and the famous home of the Phantom of the Opera. The Grand Staircase, the red and gold auditorium with its Marc Chagall painted ceiling and the foyers are all magnificent.
By now it was way past lunchtime and I hadn�t eaten, but I didn�t want to spoil my final dinner so I went to the Ile St-Louis. The queue outside Berthillon was long and wound around the corner but I found another place selling Berthillon ice cream with only a small queue, so I had a waffle cone with a scoop of vanilla and one of chocolate. The ice cream was heavenly again, and I ate it as I walked across to the Ile de la Cit� for one last look in the souvenir shops. There I found just what I wanted � a baby�s bib with the word Paris sewn on it, with a little teddy bear hanging off the Eiffel Tower. The perfect gift for the expected new member of the family.
I caught the train to Goncours to have a look at the Canal St Martin with its famous iron footbridges, and it did look just like in the movies. I then walked to the place de la R�publique and caught the train back to my hotel. I had a little rest, made a start to my packing, and then received a very welcome phone call from Julian. It was 2.30am in Australia so I was very surprised to hear the phone ring, but he was in Bangkok, where it was only 11.30pm, and was at the airport about to fly home after his tax conference there. One month is a long time to be apart and his phone call made me even keener to get home.
For my final dinner I chose to go to Le Petit Bofinger just off the place de la Bastille. When I walked out into the street from my hotel I found police everywhere and huge crowds of people, with roads blocked off and traffic diverted, and the place de la Bastille had been turned into the scene of a giant dance party. People were dancing in all the streets and dozens had climbed up onto the base of the Colonne de Juillet.
Dinner was fitting for my final night � another 3 course menu including wine for �27.00, plus I had a Kir Royale to begin with. To accompany my � bottle of Marquise des Tours 2000 Bordeaux red, I had 6 Brittany oysters, the �rumsteack� served with potatoes, and of course, a cr�me br�l�e. This one lacked the sophistication of last night�s one, but was very good nonetheless. Feeling very full and �well oiled�, I made my way through the crowds and back to the hotel to continue packing.
Posts: 64 | Location: Melbourne | Registered: 10 September 2001 |
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Post by Owen on Oct 2, 2014 12:44:29 GMT
32 ~ Sunday 15 September, 2002
As usual before a big flight, I couldn�t sleep and spent most of the night reading. I was packed and ready to go by 8.30am, I checked out at 9.00am, and read my book until my shuttle bus arrived punctually at 9.45am. There were already 6 others in the van, all Americans, so there were no more stops to pick people up and I sat in the front seat with the driver. What a hair-raising ride to Charles de Gaulle! I preferred to turn my head and talk to the other passengers, to looking ahead as the driver went at 130kph in a 90kph zone in the left lane with only one vehicle length between us and the vehicle in front! All the other passengers were dropped off first, then I was taken to Terminal 1, arriving just after 10.15am. A great service for �22.00 (compared to about �45.00 by taxi or the luggage struggles I would have had if I�d taken the M�tro and the RER).
The queue for the Singapore Airlines check-in took about � an hour, and I was glad that I had decided to check in and get a good seat and get rid of my suitcase before tackling d�taxe. That took 40 minutes in the queue, plus another 10 minutes at Travelex, where they charged me �6.00 for the privilege of having them refund my tax for me. Of course, they don�t tell you that before they have processed the paperwork and selected the cash-back option, so one just has to cop it.
Next through the ugly, grotty spaceship that is Charles de Gaulle airport, out to my departure lounge where the number of seats was about 1 to every 5 passengers. Our take off was punctual and I was on my way home.
Monday 16 September, 2002
After a sleepless 12 hour flight from Paris, I arrived in Singapore before 8.00am and went straight to the boarding gate for my connecting flight to Melbourne. I turned on my mobile phone, to find that I couldn�t make calls from Singapore either, but I did make contact with both Mum and Julian by SMS, confirming that Mum and Dad would be at the airport to meet me, and that I would ring Julian as soon as I was in the car on my way home. We were a little late in departing but made up the time straight away.
Unlike my other 3 flights on 747s, this Singapore-Melbourne leg was on a Boeing 777 and was very comfortable. There are only 9 seats across the plane instead of 10 in economy class, the seats are much more comfortable and the legroom was very generous. The added comfort didn�t help me to sleep at all, but that didn�t matter because I was nearly home. We landed on time in Melbourne at 7.05pm.
I called in at the duty free shop to buy some French perfumes for about � the price that they were in France (I�m still in shock over that!), and then collected my suitcase. My passage through customs was easy, and I had no problems keeping any of the goods I had to declare � the tapenades, mustards and biscuits from Mont-St-Michel were all unopened and fine to keep.
What a surprise when I came out through the sliding doors to find not Mum and Dad but Julian there waiting for me. Jules couldn�t wait the extra hour and had come to the airport to meet me, and Dad was there too but had gone off to the domestic terminal looking for Mum who was flying in from a conference in Sydney. Home to my lovely little apartment in the pretty Melbourne suburb of Armadale, to eat a take-away Thai dinner at my dining table with Mum, Dad and Julian and I was almost too tired to talk. After the most wonderful month long adventure in a beautiful, beautiful country, it was just as wonderful to be home safe and sound in the most livable city in the world with the people I love. |
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Post by Owen on Oct 2, 2014 12:49:36 GMT
33 ~ Nell,
Perhaps... "Ugly Tourist" would be a better choice of words.
Am sensitive to the "Ugly Americian" stereotype, due to an incident on the coach/bus; where we over-heard a rather loud conversation between two people, from different countries,totally bashing people from the US. The tirade went on and on. We sat and said nothing. Not wanting to drag ourselves to that level.
After that moment, we found it hard to even look upon those faces much less travel with them.
I remember the thought... We all represent our countries when traveling. Careless remarks can cause great harm.
So, my friend, a person from any country can be perceived as an "Ugly Tourist". We, in the States, should not hold that reputation. We all represent ourselves and our countries when we travel.
Am enjoying your Journal; however, I had to interject this thought.
Christy |
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Post by Owen on Oct 2, 2014 12:50:16 GMT
34 ~ Christy,
I appreciate the sensitivity on this issue, however, I do believe that a stereotype of the ugly American tourist does exist, as has been discussed on the various bulletin boards over the years. I'm not picking on Americans... just wait until my journal gets to the Trafalgar Tour I took. There were a couple of ugly Australian tourists on that one! And the other 14 Australians had many occasions on which there was a collective cringe.
I can say wholeheartedly that I liked and enjoyed the company of every other American I travelled with during my month in France. They were all delightful people and marvellous ambassadors for their country. The stereotype in question, which they generally agreed does exist, was a topic of conversation on both of my tours. It most certainly doesn't imply that all American tourists are like that. Largely we discussed how sad it is that the behaviour of very few is heard about by so many, thus giving a reputation.
I'm certain that I don't fit the stereotype of the young Australian tourist in Europe. That stereotype, which I'm sure doesn't fit the majority, is one of a noisy, loutish, boozing reveller who drinks his/her way from one city to the next. Unfortunate, but that is the reputation that the behaviour of a few have earned for us.
My point in using the expression was certainly not an endorsement, but an illustration of how these stereotypes arise and unfortunately live on.
Narelle |
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Post by Owen on Oct 2, 2014 12:51:59 GMT
35 ~ ttompson
Very interesting journal - thank you for going to the trouble of posting. I too travel alone as my husband says he did too much traveling in the military! I always pay the extra for the single room and I can't imagine how awful a wonderful trip would be with the wrong companion - and a perfect stranger to boot. It seems that on all my trips there is always one person who tries to make everyone else miserable. Guess they are just miserable and want everyone else to be also I don't believe that the single supplement is too high as how can you place a price on quiet times when you need it.!!
Posts: 126 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 21 September 2001
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Post by Owen on Oct 2, 2014 13:06:35 GMT
40 ~ Optionals
Having taken �The Country Roads of France� tour commencing 17 August 2002, I thought it might be useful to summarise the optionals that were offered and my views of them. A more detailed account of my experiences is contained in my journal, posted under the heading �Narelle�s Tour de France�. Of course the optionals offered may differ from tour to tour depending on the preferences of the particular Tour Manager, but at least this is a guide.
On every tour there seems to be someone who will point out how one could do most of these activities cheaper by oneself. In many cases this is true, but it's a matter of preference. By taking the optionals you get the convenience of all arrangements being made for you, including purchase of tickets. All transport is included to and from the hotel. You have the benefit of being with your tour companions. In places you will be able to "jump the queue" by virtue of being with a tour group. The benefits of being with a knowledgeable tour guide can be enormous (and can outweigh the use of audio guides that are available in some places but can be expensive). Time is usually fairly tight on these tours and alternative means of transport can take a long time. In many cases the Trafalgar prices are considerably cheaper than those offered by some of Paris's large day tour companies.
(1) Giverny. Euro 45.
This is a visit to the country house and spectacular gardens of Claude Monet. Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. This optional to me was worth every single Euro - what price such a memorable experience? I would imagine that catching public transport out to Giverny is quite a time-consuming task in comparison to the coach trip. On the coach our Tour Manager spoke at length about the life and work of Monet and his Impressionist contemporaries. This optional was offered to us first thing in the morning on Day 2 before we headed off into Champagne and Burgundy that afternoon. We also had entry to the gardens from 9.00am. The general public is not admitted until 10.00am and this place can get very busy in the middle of the day. Those who didn�t take this optional remained in Paris at leisure until about 12 noon. The TD said that she would normally offer this optional on return to Paris on Day 14.
(2) Private Wine Tasting and Ch�teau Gourmet Dinner. Euro 63.
This was such a highlight for me at the Ch�teau de Saulon in Burgundy on Day 3. Lovely savouries were served as we tasted 3 local wines. The ch�teau restaurant has 2 Michelin stars and the quality of the food was outstanding. We had a choice of 2 dishes for each of entr�e, main course and dessert, and the cheese selection was large and varied. The setting and service were both wonderful, and the wine was of a good quality and plentiful. The bus ride through some of the region�s most famous vineyards was great too. Those who didn�t go stayed in Beaune for the evening where the hotel is centrally located.
(3) The Mer de Glace Mountain Ride. Euro 28.
Another highlight for me. This was a cog-railway ride from Montenvers to Chamonix. The panorama is spectacular! We visited an ice cave dug into the glacier, travelling down to it by cabin gondola. There are exhibits of rock crystals and alpine fauna to visit. Views from the cog-railway over Chamonix and of Mont Blanc were also spectacular. The notes from Insight say that we journey to Montenvers to enjoy some refreshment � the only included refreshment was the mountain air, but there was a place where we could buy morning tea. We took this optional on the morning of Day 5. I understand it would normally be offered in the afternoon of Day 4. Those who didn�t go remained in Chamonix.
(4) �ze Village, Perfume Factory and Free Time for Dinner in Old Nice. Euro 16.
This was a late afternoon excursion on Day 6. First we visited the Fragonard Perfume Factory � quite interesting but fairly mechanical style of presentation but not many people purchased anything. The village of �ze is well worth visiting with charming laneways and buildings and lovely views of the Riviera. We were transported back to Old Nice where we had time to dine, with transport back to the hotel. Those who didn�t take this optional either dined near the hotel or made their own way into the centre of Nice (a good 30 minutes + walk from the hotel and taxis are hard to find).
(5) Villa and Gardens de Rothschild. Euro 20.
Another highlight. If you like gardens then don�t miss this optional! The gardens are magnificent and the views over the Bays of Villefranche and Beaulieu are wonderful. The collections of porcelain, paintings and drawings within the villa, where we had a guided tour, are also worth seeing. This optional was taken mid-afternoon on Day 7 on our return from Monaco. Those who didn�t do this optional were returned to Nice, either to the centre of town or to the hotel.
(6) Boat Cruise (Private) and Free Time for Dinner in Villefranche. Euro 24.
This optional commenced early evening on Day 7, taking a private boat cruise from the Nice Harbour. Our TD guided us, pointing out sights and houses of interest on the land, with the view from the water just wonderful. The cruise lasted for an hour. Dining choices in Villefranche-sur-Mer are excellent and there is a great atmosphere in this up-market part of the Riviera.
(7) Les-Baux-de-Provence and Visit Olive Mill. Euro 20.
This excursion started mid-afternoon on Day 9, with transport from Avignon. Les-Baux-de-Provence is a strange and wild place with the ruins of a medieval citadel on the top of a rocky plateau. A charming village climbs up the side of the rocky plateau. We visited the Moulin du Calanquet for instruction in the process of making olive oil, and a tasting of oils, olives and tapenades. An excellent outing, the alternative to which is to remain in Avignon.
(8) Dinner in St-Guilhem. Euro 61.
I think everyone who took this optional on our tour counts it as one of his or her main highlights. We were transported out of Montpellier and up into the hills to this spectacular little World Heritage village. There were 2 choices for each of the 3 main courses, which were all excellent in quality, and we also had a choice of 3 different pre-dinner drinks. Wine was good and plentiful, and a liquor sorbet was served before dessert. The restaurant setting was excellent too. The hotel in Montpellier was centrally located so there were plenty of alternatives for those who didn�t take this optional on Day 10.
(9) Montmartre excursion and illuminations. Euro 20.
One of the disadvantages of a small tour group is that there may not be enough �takers� for all of the optionals to go ahead. This was the case with this optional, offered for the evening of Day 14, which would have included an orientation walk in Montmartre followed by a nighttime bus trip around Paris, the �city of light�.
(10 ) Guided Louvre Museum. Euro 36.
Again, this was an optional for the afternoon of Day 15 that didn�t proceed because of lack of numbers. The Tour Manager also asked whether there were people preferring to go to Versailles but there weren�t enough of those either.
(11) Farewell Dinner. Euro 56.
I had to leave the tour a day early and so couldn�t attend the farewell dinner on Day 15 which was to be held at a Paris restaurant. Menu choices didn�t have to be made in advance for a change, and the meal was to be all inclusive. Perhaps I can get a report from one of my fellow travellers who went there.
(12) Cabaret Show. Euro 60.
This cabaret show followed the farewell dinner on Day 15 and was at the Nouvelle Eve. Again, I couldn�t attend so cannot report, but our Tour Manager (a Parisienne) thinks this venue has the best Can-Can in Paris.
(11 + 12) Farewell Dinner and Cabaret Show. Euro 108.
There was a slight discount for those who chose to combine the dinner and cabaret, but they were offered as 2 separate parts so that people could do one or the other or both. After years of experience, this is our Tour Manager�s preferred way of doing things on the final night. She also feels that the quality of the dinner is much better at a restaurant rather than one of the cabaret venues.
Questions welcomed!
Narelle
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